“I was so greedy at the cookie table,” confesses chef and cookbook author Caroline Schiff. She’s standing in her cozy Brooklyn kitchen making these prune, walnut, and port wine rugelach, surrounded by family mementos. There’s a stack of her great-grandmother Ann’s fine china and her handwritten recipes on the backs of cancelled checks. Nearby, hangs a portrait of a family member painted by a tenant who couldn’t pay rent for an apartment her family owned.
Cookies, especially rugelach, were mainstays of Jewish gatherings when Caroline was little, at her grandmother’s home, shivas, and at Friday night onegs, or small celebrations with sweets, after synagogue services. Caroline always sought out the ones filled with chocolate, cinnamon sugar, or raspberry, but never prune butter, also known as lekvar. “The prune ones, I thought, were for the old yentas,” she writes in her new book “Daily Dessert: Treats on Repeat.”
But, she’s come to love the nod to tradition and richness of prune filling. In this recipe, she schmears it on a dough enriched with butter and cream cheese that she cuts like pizza and then rolls up to shape the cookies. The result is a rugelach that’s not too sweet. “That way you can eat more than one,” Caroline says.
Read more of Caroline’s family story in “Cold Fruit Soup Connects Caroline Schiff to Her Great-Grandmother” and try her recipe for cold fruit soup.