“In my head, Sabina sounds like a mythical character,” Amanda Weiss says of her great-grandmother who she never met. “They talk about her at every dinner table.” Baking was her forte — apple strudel, pineapple tarts, challah rolls, and more. And it’s because of Amanda’s bubby, Edythe, who was Sabina’s daughter-in-law, that she has tasted her great-grandmother’s famed raspberry rugelach.
Sabina was born in Chernivtsi, a city that now sits in southwestern Ukraine, around the turn of the 20th century. One of five sisters, her parents would often send the girls away to keep them safe from the Russian army. Meanwhile, the man who would become her husband, Benjamin, fought in the Austro-Hungarian Army in World War I and was stabbed while serving in the mountains. They both came to the U.S. and despite the fact that Benjamin was her first cousin, they married.
Edythe remembers Sabina as “a phenomenal cook and a wonderful person — and she was a wonderful poker player.” Sabina would bake for poker games she hosted when the family and friends rented a cottage in the beachtown of Woodmont, CT, which was a popular Jewish vacation spot. “My father-in-law had no interest in playing, but he was the enforcer — because these were tough ladies who didn’t like loosing and they had quite a vocabulary,” Edythe says.
When Sabina was living, Edythe says she never would have attempted to make one of her baked goods, but she sat down with Sabina sometime in the 1970s and attempted to write some of the recipes down, including the recipe for her rugelach. Others, however, were never recorded. “We thought life was forever,” Edythe says.
After Sabina passed away, Edythe took on the role of the family rugelach baker. A friend’s daughter who owned a restaurant liked them so much that she asked her to bake them for their dessert menu. Today, Edythe continues to bake the rugelach, but “I just do it for people I love,” she says.
Cook’s notes: A cream cheese based dough gives these rugelach a soft, buttery texture with a melt-in-your-mouth quality. When raspberries were in season, Sabina would pick them on trails along the beach and turn them into jam, but store bought raspberry jam works beautifully here. This recipe fills multiple tins; the rugelach can be made in advance, frozen after shaping and baked off when desired, straight from the freezer.