When Or’Esh chef Nadav Greenberg was grounded as a kid, he was sent to his grandmother Regina’s house, a two minute walk away. Born in Meknes, a smaller city in Morocco, she moved to Jerusalem in the mid-1940s alone, when she was only 15. She was brave and elegant, Nadav says, the type of woman who put on perfume before taking the trash out.
Regina was also a gifted cook, known in the family for her famous matbucha and countless spicy dips and salads. She had two kitchens in her home — one that was immaculate for hosting and a smaller kitchen in the back where all the real cooking was done. Nadav secretly loved being grounded. The pair would go to the market to shop together and end up in the kitchen. “Because of her, I’m cooking. She made me love it,” Nadav says. “My [cooking] philosophy is based on her’s.”
One of her specialties for engagements and birthday parties was Moroccan cigars, crispy thin dough wrapped around a chicken liver filling. When Nadav helped chef and restaurateur Eyal Shani open the Michelin-starred spot Shmoné in New York, he was determined to add a Moroccan cigar to the menu. Today, it’s on the menu at Nadav’s new spot, Or’Esh.
Cooking note: While cigar wrappers are traditionally made from scratch, store bought ones work extremely well. You can use brik wrappers from the freezer aisle of Middle Eastern grocery stores; they can be used straight from the freezer. Alternatively, you can use lumpia wrappers from Asian grocery stores, which need to be fully thawed before use.