A wintery Shabbat morning in Maya Yadid’s family home in Jerusalem often meant hamin. Sometimes it was a macaroni hamin (slow-cooked chicken and pasta casserole) and on special occasions — this elaborate hamin, featuring rice-stuffed flap steak and bread dumplings called kuklas. This recipe can be traced back to her great-grandparents in Urfa, Turkey. Older versions included stuffed kishke (intestines) and kirshe (stomach), but they are labor intensive to prepare and as they became harder to source, the recipe evolved.
Maya enjoys it most when “the pro” — her mom, Irit — visits her in Upstate New York and makes it for her family. It’s always served with an array of fresh, tangy sides to balance its richness like Irit’s schug (Yemenite hot sauce), pickles, fresh garden cress, and tahini.
Cooking notes: For the rice-stuffed meat, the Yadid family uses flap steak. Use a wide 2-pound steak (about 8×10 inches) that’s about 1½ inches thick. If needed, trim the edges of the steak or surface to create a neat fold—the trimmings will be added to the rice stuffing. Stuff the steak with rice and sew it shut using a trussing needle and cooking twine. For a kosher cut that’s easier to find in the U.S., a good alternative is the flat cut of brisket with a deep pocket cut into it (ask your butcher to do this).
The stuffed meat is the star of this hamin, but to simplify the recipe, you can replace it with an additional 1½ pounds of cubed boneless short rib.
Adding kuklas (bread dumplings) is optional. They cook overnight in the hamin, soaking up its rich flavors. Make sure to use stale challah so it doesn’t disintegrate — if you only have fresh, dry it in a 300°F oven for about 20 minutes. If your challah contains eggs, you may not need to add an extra egg to the kuklas mixture.
Read more about Maya’s family in “The Festive Hamin in Artist Maya Yadid’s Family Evolves With Time”.