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From Pickles to Brisket: Recipes from the Ashkenazi Kitchen

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36 Recipes

From Pickles to Brisket: Recipes from the Ashkenazi Kitchen

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36 Recipes

For most people living in the U.S., Jewish food is synonymous with Ashkenazi cooking — dishes like gefilte fish, bagels, and matzah ball soup. Like the community they come from, these foods have deep roots in Central and Eastern Europe. 

Jewish families living in France, Italy, and Germany a thousand years ago started to migrate east to escape persecution during the Crusades, but the majority moved in the 16th and 17th centuries. The countries they settled in stretched across the wide swath of land between Germany and Russia, stretching up to the Baltic Sea and down to the Black Sea. Borders in the region moved many times over the centuries, meaning different generations of one family that remained in a town may have been born in different countries. 

Much of the region shares a similar climate, defined by bountiful summers and cold winters, making root vegetables that can be stored in cellars and preserved or fermented foods essential. Fittingly, many of the dishes made in Jewish kitchens across this vast swath of land were shared. Shabbat cholent, often cooked in at the neighborhood bakery, was nearly universal. Gefilte fish and pickles also weren’t confined to one specific community, though local preferences evolved. Polish Jews often preferred sweeter flavors, while Lithuanians opted for sour ones, explains culinary scholar Claudia Roden in “The Book of Jewish Food.” 

However, not all of the dishes were shared. Jewish cooking often reflected what non-Jewish neighbors prepared in their homes, but adapted to comply with kosher laws. In Russia and Ukraine, that included borscht, in the Baltic States, they preferred herring cured in the style of nearby Scandinavia, Roden adds. 

As Ashkenazi Jews immigrated to the United States in large numbers starting in 1820, they brought these culinary traditions with them. Some were preserved while others were lost to assimilation. At the same time, new Ashkenazi culinary traditions also developed, contributing to a unique American Ashkenazi cuisine. 

This collection of recipes includes dishes that can be traced back to specific family members and places in Eastern Europe like the Hungarian fluden made by Yonit Naftali’s grandmother and borscht from Jacky Boudreaux’s family who lived in Proszowice, Poland. We have also included American Ashkenazi dishes like black and white cookies from Carol Becker and a brisket from Rachel Barnett that’s cooked with Heinz Chili Sauce, an ingredient beloved by many American Jewish families. 

Each of these recipes reflects how one family prepares them in their homes. And all are to be treasured.


Find more Jewish recipes here and in our cookbook “The Jewish Holiday Table: A World of Recipes, Traditions & Stories to Celebrate All Year Long.”

In this collection

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36 Recipes